NEW MODS, Check this out!
You may have to move the scroll bars... sorry
Project PleXi Underway... |
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Intro
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Step 1
Project Plexi:
This is the first phase of the Plexiglass PC project. I customized a 4.3 GB Seagate IDE Hard drive by removing the lid and fitting it with 1/8" Lexan. Once reassembled the hard drive which previously had a working installation of windows 98 on it booted up without a hitch and tested to have NO bad sectors. A success for the Modder!
Click the pictures to see larger versions! |
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Step 2
Final steps of preparation and the finished product. |
My case.. all by it's lonesome:
This is the beginnings of my Cold Cathode mod.
I stripped the case down to just the metal frame so that I could decide where my wiring would go more easilly. |
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And now for something completely Different:
The following are a pictoral representation of my latest modification: Hardwired Badgelight/Power LED indicator with keyswitch. |
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Here's the front of the case:
The square hole has been cut out and the custom-ordered Plexiglass piece snugly fit into place.
This photo is of the front of the cases' door. |
Here's the view from the back
This is the back side of the door.
You can see that the plexiglass block protrudes slightly and has a small 5mm hold for the Blue LED to fit into. |
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Conduit Joint:
Here I ran the twisted pair of wires through a hole I melted in the hinge with a red-hot needle. This allows the door to open and shut without wearing out the wires.
I then ran the wires along the corners of the inside of the door so as to keep them out of the way.
I later replaced the foam tape with epoxy puddy to give the install a more streamlined look. |
Key switch:
I swapped out the key lock with an electrical key switch. This switch is located on the front door panel. |
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Backside of Key switch:
I then ran the wires fron the hinge over to the terminals of the keyswitch. I ran the ground wire through the switch terminals to break the circuit when the key is in the "un-locked" position. |
Back of Badge:
I then ran the wires up to the plexiglass block to wire up the Blue LED. The badge sticker was then applied to the plexiglass block and the LED was inserted into the block and secured. I used a very sticky and rubbery kind of foamed-tape to secure the wires where needed.
The picture to the right shows the back of the lit and unlit badge.
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Here's the front:
Again.. lit and unlit.. |
Power LED Jumper:
I used my multimeter to assess that the "Power LED" jumper was a 5volt DC jumper. I then matched up the positive (+) and negative (-) poles with a spare wire I had to make the conection. These 2 wires were spliced with the thinner wire before making their way through the hinge. |
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